When it comes to steamed burgers, it's Ted's Restaurant

MERIDEN — Ted's Restaurant doesn't offer a lot by way of décor to go along with its legendary steamed hamburgers. There are a few pictures of owner Paul Duberek proudly holding some impressive looking fish and some newspaper articles on the walls, but that is pretty much it.

But perched on top of a coffeemaker behind the counter is a movie box cover showing a hamburger that would make the most ardent burger-phile blush with joy. It is the cover of the film "Hamburger America," a documentary by 36-year-old Brooklyn filmmaker George Motz that is making the film festival circuit. Ted's is one of eight establishments from across the nation profiled in the film. "The first question everyone asks me is ‘What is my favorite burger?' You know what? I can't tell you. I can't play favorites," said Motz, who described his films as being ultimately about people and their passions.

The film was recently screened in New York City to sold-out audiences. Apparently, Motz's work pleased Duberek so much, he gave him his own steam cabinet. "In two weeks I am teaching a class at the Culinary Institute in Manhattan on restaurant management. I am going to show the film to the class and make them some steamed cheeseburgers," Motz said.

Motz is going to have to come back to Meriden, however, to pick up the cheese for the class — where Duberek gets it is a closely guarded secret.

The most pleasing thing for Motz as a result of his newfound notoriety was that the restaurant owners really seemed to enjoy the film. "It was an honor to be chosen. It gives you a little spring in your step," Duberek said. "I think the film was very well done. It is gratifying to see all of the mom-and-pop places recognized … When you drive down East Main Street, all you see are franchises. It is nice to know that we have been able to survive by being unique."

There were three main criteria Motz used for selecting the burger joints. He wanted family-owned restaurants that had been open for at least 40 years and have had the same burgers on their menus since opening; fresh ground meat only, no frozen patties; and each place must make its burgers differently and have a story. Ted's fit the bill perfectly out of the 3,000 restaurants being considered.

While not many patrons seem to be aware of Ted's newfound fame on the silver screen, the staff seems to be excited about it. "We are going to get a DVD player and play it for the customers when they come in," said Steve Parisi, a counterman at the restaurant. "People have heard about (the film) and are pretty interested. We think it will be good for business."

It is hard to say what the film could do to help the already successful Broad Street business. Parisi said they already sell approximately 350 hamburgers a day. "We have people come from all over. There is a guy from California who comes here every time he is in Connecticut. Another guy heard about us all the way over in Poland," he said.

Ted's is an establishment, much like the iconic pizza places on Wooster Street in New Haven, which inspires fierce loyalty. Some patrons have been coming since the business first opened 46 years ago. "Some people still only order the original burger — onions and mustard," said Kevin LeMay, a cook at the restaurant for nine years.

"Yeah; if an old guy comes in here, you already know what they are going to order," Parisi said.

When Shannon Dehnel knew she was going to be passing through Meriden Thursday afternoon around lunchtime, she knew a little detour was in order. "I am pregnant, so I crave this place," Dehnel said with a smile as she took her order to go.

Duberek once likened using the steamer to playing a musical instrument. The freshly ground meat is taken out of the refrigerator and spooned into small trays. The Vermont cheddar cheese is also placed in separate trays. The trays are placed in the 13-by-10-inch steamer cabinet, a medieval-looking contraption sitting on a raging fire from a stove. The meat and cheese are steamed for several minutes while LeMay cuts small pieces of lettuce and tomato and places them on a Kaiser roll.

When LeMay takes the hamburgers out of the machine, it hisses and throws off a mean-looking cloud of steam. He then takes the tray of meat and spoons it out onto the rolls, splitting the meat with his spatula. He pours the melted cheese over the meat and the lettuce, finally placing the tomato on top of the cheese.

When the burger is finally served on a small paper plate, the steam is still rising from it — something that never happens with a burger from McDonald's or Burger King.

After exchanging pleasantries with LeMay and Parisi, cousins Scott and Mike Sattler settled down for their lunch Thursday: two burgers apiece. "It is just really good food. The menu is small; you don't have to think when you come here," Mike Sattler said.

"Yeah, they just get what they get," LeMay threw over his shoulder as he tended the steamer.

So what makes this ostensibly benign culinary treat so tempting? After all, you can get a hamburger virtually anywhere. "It is the leanest hamburger you can buy," LeMay said. "I think that, and the sharp cheese."

"Having it steamed takes the grease right out of it," said Ed, who declined to give his last name for fear his boss would know he had taken a little detour to get a steamer.

When Scott Sattler heard there was a Ted's neophyte in his midst, he intently watched the man's first bite. As the newly indoctrinated member of Ted's club chewed intently, Scott couldn't wait to hear the verdict. "Well, what do you think?" he asked.

From the rapt expression on the man's face, it was clear that Ted's had won another convert. "It's just a good burger," Ed said.

sscarpa@record-journal.com