Old fashioned burgers, new and improved

MERIDEN - Mike Skelly and Jim Weber lamented a recent trip to Fairfield County as they relished the reopening of Ted's Restaurant.

The two needed a taste of meat, cheese and Meriden Thursday. A few days earlier, they had stopped at a Starbucks in Trumbull with a client. He ordered a grande latte. They asked if the place served a cup of joe.

"I felt like we were on Frasier, for god's sake," Skelly said, referring to the popular television show.

They stopped at Ted's on their way back to the office happy to see the tiny steamed cheeseburger spot had reopened after a 10-day hiatus for remodeling. Weber declared his burger more satisfying than a cigarette, after swallowing the last bit of a Kaiser roll oozing with cheese.

Inside, Ted's was a little brighter and a little nicer, but no roomier. There are still only four booths and four stools. Customers ordered cheeseburgers the way most people order drinks by the round. The place was packed at 1 p.m. Some regulars never knew it was closed, while others eagerly awaited the reopening.

Last week, the front wall of the narrow restaurant was torn down and a Dumpster was put in front. People still stopped by and tried to order cheeseburgers. They were disappointed when told to come back in a few days, said Christian Parisi, a cook and counter worker.

A local contractor and a few Ted's employees put up wood paneling, redid the bathroom and brought in a new stainless steel preparation table. The stove and special steamers, however, have not changed. The burgers are still cooked in a metal steam box set on top a pot of boiling water.

Steamed hotdogs and BLTs are on the menu, but are rarely ordered, said Kevin LeMay, who also cooks and works the counter.

LeMay could not remember the last time the 43-year-old establishment had been remodeled. He guessed some time in the 1980s. He was happy that under the new setup the only air conditioner had been relocated near the stove. Cool air blew on him as he stuffed raw meat and slices of cheddar cheese into little cooking trays.

Some Ted's regulars almost missed the reopening. Scott Suzio was meeting up with some friends for lunch, but suggested another place. His buddy, however, informed him that the Dumpster was gone and customers were parked along Broad Street.

"Never seen one," said David McNeill, who was visiting from Louisiana, as he eyed the wet hunk of meat topped with a congealing piece of cheddar cheese.

Down there, the burgers are fried with onions. He thought the New England specialty was pretty good, washing it down with a can of iced tea.

Almost across the street, another longtime Broad Street establishment has gone through some changes. The former Brookside Cafe is reopening as a sports bar.

mpeters@record-journal.com